Video Panduan Aquaponik

Pemasangan Set-Up Fertigasi

Pada 29hb November 2008, saya & rakan partner saya en. Jamal telah sama-sama membantu proses pemasangan set-up fertigasi 4 lot kecil dengan 2 set pengairan titis yang mengandungi 120 point untuk client kami, En. Abd Razak di Parit Bunga, Muar, Johor. Semuanya berjalan lancar dan En. Razak pun nampaknya berpuas hati. Set-up tersebut dipasang di sebuah tapak tanah yang baru dilapangkan berhampiran dengan rumahnya yang juga terdapat kilang mee siput yang baru diusahakannya dalam setahun yang lalu. Jika diperhatikan dari gambar2 di bawah, kami tidak memasang alas Silvershine. Ini adalah kerana penyediaan tapak oleh beliau tidak begitu sempurna (tanahnya tidak diratakan dengan baik, banyak lopak air dan bonggolan batu & tanah serta topografi yang tidak rata. Ini akan merosakkan alas tersebut dan mengakibatkan pengairan yang tidak sekata serta risiko air baja disedut oleh faktor graviti walaupun pam telah berhenti). Walaubagaimanapun, kami telah membekalkan beliau dengan alas tersebut dan memintanya meratakan perlahan-lahan dan setelah itu memasangnya. Beliau telah menyatakan cadangan untuk mengusahakan kedua-dua projek ini secara sepenuh masa dan ingin menambahkan jumlah point pokok kepada set yang sedia ada. Selain sistem tanaman dan bekalan anak pokok, benih, media semai(peat-moss) & media tanaman (coco-peat), baja dan peralatan lainnya, kami juga membekalkan beliau dengan racun, pam penyembur racun, buku & CD lengkap kaedah Fertigasi selain Kursus Fertigasi secara percuma serta konsultasi dan lawatan dari kami. Beliau telah mengenali kami melalui site promosi kami di http://produk2-green-legacy.blogspot.com.

Sistem Hidroponik NFT & EBB/Flow

Sistem NFT adalah satu sistem Hidroponik yang mempunyai aliran larutan berbaja yang berterusan pada akar tanaman. Sekarang ini, rekabentuk platform takungan sudah jarang digunakan lagi. Sebaliknya sistem ini menggunakan tiub paip UPVC yang bersaiz 90mm. larutan baja disalurkan dari takungan/tangki terus ke setiap tiub menggunakan pam. Ia akan mengalir ke dalam tiub dan larutan akan disalurkan kembali ke tangki dari hujung tiub tersebut dan dikitar semula. Rajah di bawah menunjukkan model asas sistem ini.
Kebaikan sistem ini ialah kadar pertumbuhan pokok adalah tinggi dan juga menjimatkan baja dan air. Akan tetapi sistem ini juga ada keburukannya. Jika aliran air terlalu deras, kotoran atau akar-akar halus yang terlepas akan menyumbat seluruh sistem dan boleh menyebabkan kematian pokok. Ini dapat dielakkan dengan menapis air laruran yang masuk semula ke dalam tangki baja.
Sistem EBB-Flood & Drain pula agak berbeza sedikit kerana air larutan yang disalurkan ke tiub dibenarkan bertakung sehingga ke paras akar tanaman. lebihan air akan dikumpulkan dan disalurkan semula ke tangki baja untuk dikitar semula. Kaedah ini sangat sesaui untuk tanaman sayur berdaun. Rajah di bawah menunjukkan rekabentuk sistem ini

AMALAN PENANAMAN UMUM - Melatih Tanaman & Cantasan / GENERAL CULTURAL PRACTICES - Training & Pruning

TRAINING AND PRUNING

In general greenhouse crops (tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers) are indeterminant (vining) types to take advantage of the vertical volume of the greenhouse.
*The plant vines are supported on vine twine by vine clips. The twine is wrapped around some sort of device from which it can be unwound (tomahook, bobbin, etc.). Plants are trained up the twine to the wires forming a “V” shape. As the plants grow up to the overhead support wire, the twine is unwound, the plants lowered and shifted one space – “LEANED AND LOWERED”.

Tomato vines should not be lowered more than 2 feet at a time OR another good way to tell, DO NOT lower the vine such that an 80 or higher degree bend is created in the vine near the floor. High angles promote stem cracking.
*Plants are trained to 1-3 stems by removing (pruning) side shoots or “suckers”. Tomatoes are trained to 1 stem (or 2 stems to replace a topped or broken neighbour or during a season of high light, i.e., Spring or early Summer).
Peppers are usually trained to 2 or 3 stems. Their stems are much more brittle than tomatoes and tend to snap if they are leaned and lowered. Cucumbers have traditionally been trained using such methods as the “V-cordon” or “umbrella”. However, they can also be trained to 1 stem like tomatoes.

*Side shoots or suckers are so named because they suck nutrients from the main plant. The process of removing suckers = “sucker pruning” or “suckering”.

*NEVER PRUNE SIDE SHOOTS WITHIN 2 INCHES OF THE TOP! It is too easy to remove the APICAL MERISTEM, the top growing point. If the apical meristem is removed or damaged (the plant is “topped”), a lower side shoot or even a sucker from a neighboring plant will need to be allowed to grow and take over as the apical meristem. This will take time and this plant will now be behind the others. Therefore, STUDY the top of the plant carefully, DETERMINE the location of the apical meristem, MOVE 2 inches down, THEN begin pruning!
*Extra growths may also occur on fruit clusters. These should be removed.
*Leaves: As the plants grow old leaves furthest from the apical meristem will begin to age or senesce = yellow spots appear due to the loss of chlorophyll. These leaves are no longer contributing as much to photosynthesis. These leaves should be removed – usually 3 leaves once a week. This is about the usual number of leaves that appear at the meristem per week.
The first three leaves will be removed when the plants reach 4-6 feet.
Leaves should be removed in the morning when the plants are “turgid” (full of water) so that they break off crisply. Leaves should be removed at the stem-petiole abscission zone – the bulbous point of attachment of the leaf petiole to the main stem. This abscission zone forms a clean break and seals quickly. If the leaf is “ripped” off, the damaged tissue could provide a point of entry for pathogens.
NOTE: Removing old, lower leaves also allows for air movement around the
lower part of the plant. This reduces humidity that can promote disease.
Also, certain insect pests tend to reproduce on lower leaves. Pruning
reduces their overall populations.

Watch these 2 videos on How To Prune Tomatoes:

Amalan Tanaman Umum - Jarak Pokok & Susun Atur Tanaman / General Cultural Practices - Plant Spacing & Crop Layout

Jarak Tanaman ditentukan oleh 2 faktor berikut:
1) Kehadiran cahaya kepada lindungan - Tanaman mestilah dijarakkan cukup jauh dari sebarang objek untuk mendapat jumlah cahaya yang sampai kepada daunnya semaksima mungkin untuk kadar Fotosintesis yang paling optima.

2) Bekalan air & zat untuk akar - Tanaman mestilah cukup jauh jaraknya untuk mendapatkan bekalan yang cukup untuk kedua - dua bahan ini.

* Jarak tanaman di rumah berpelindung adalah lebih dekat berbanding di atas tanah/batas. Contohnya, Tomato di atas tanah = 4000 - 5000 pokok/ekar
Tomato secara Hidroponik/Fertigasi = 10,000 - 11,000 pokok/ekar
Mengapa? Rumah lindungan berdiameter kecil dan akar tanaman yang ditanam secara hidroponik/fertigasi 'disuap'kan dengan bekalan air/zat yang cukup dan berkala. Oleh itu, tidak perlu mempunyai sistem perakaran yang besar.
Akar tanaman yang ditanam di atas tanah akan berkembang untuk mencari air & zat. Oleh itu pokok yang ditanam di atas tanah mestilah dijarakkan sejauh mungkin untuk mengelakkan persaingan dengan pokok bersebelahan. Oleh itu, pengairan titis/fertigasi membolehkan jarak yang lebih dekat.
*Contoh jarak tanaman Hidroponik:

• Tomato = 2.5 – 3 pokok/meter persegi
  
• Lada Benggala = 2.5 – 4 pokok/meter persegi
• Timun = 1.25 – 3 pokok/meter persegi
• Melon = 2.5 - 3 pokok/meter persegi

Susun atur tanaman di dalam rumah lindungan haruslah pada barisan yang cenderung tepat menghadap ke Utara & Selatan. Ini adalah penting kerana pada waktu siang, Matahari bergerak dari Timur ke Barat dan jika baris tanaman diatur menghadap arah Timur ke Barat, baris yang paling Selatan akan melindungi cahaya kepada baris tanaman di belakangnya.
Seringkali tomato ditanam di baris berkembar yang berjarak 5-6 kaki dengan 3 pokok untuk setiap polibeg 'bantal' (slab) sepanjang 1 meter. yang disusun sebelah menyebelah.


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Plant spacing is determined by two main factors:
1) The availability of light to the canopy - Plants must be far enough apart so that a maximum amount of light reaches the leaves for optimum photosynthesis.
2) The availability of water and nutrients to the roots - Plants must be far enough apart so that all plants have an optimum supply of these items.
*Plant spacing in “vining” greenhouse crops, including tomatoes, is much closer than for field crops.
Example: Field (bush) tomatoes = 4000 – 5000 plants/acre.
Hydroponic greenhouse tomatoes = 10,000 – 11,000 plants/acre.
*Why? A vine has a much smaller diameter than a bush, so they can be closer together and the leaves will still obtain optimum light for photosynthesis. The roots of a plant growing in hydroponics receives all the water and nutrients it requires. They are “spoon-fed” and do not have to grow large systems. The roots of a field grown plant will be more spread out as they search for water and nutrients in the soil matrix. Therefore, field grown plants must be positioned far enough apart to avoid competition of neighboring plants for water or nutrients. NOTE: Drip irrigation allows for closer spacing.
*Typical hydroponic plant spacing:

• Tomatoes = 2.5 – 3 plants per square meter
• Peppers = 2.5 – 4 plants per square meter
• Cucumbers = 1.25 – 3 plants per square meter
• Melon = 2.5 - 3 plants per square meter
  

*The typical layout of the greenhouse for vining vegetable crops is in rows tending approximately north and south. This is important because during the day the sun moves from east to west and if the rows were also set up east to west the southern most rows (in the
northern hemisphere) would shade the rows behind them. Typically, tomatoes are also grown in “double rows”. These double rows are usually 5-6 feet apart. With 3 plants per Rockwool slab (1 meter long each) or perlite bag (about 36”), sets of 2 slabs/bags are placed side by side. With 6 plants per slab/bag a single row of slabs/bags is used. Overhead support wires are set at least 2 feet apart.

Panduan Menyemai Benih Cili

AMALAN PENANAMAN UMUM - Keadaan Persekitaran / GENERAL CULTURAL PRACTICES : Enviromental Conditions Required

2) Suhu: Suhu yang optima untuk pertumbuhan tanaman berbeza dari spesis tanaman dan jenis tanaman di dalam spesis yang sama. Contohnya, untuk kebanyakan tanaman jenis tomato, suhu yang paling sesuai untuk pendebungaan dan pembuahan ialah 23-25 C manakala suhu yang paling sesuai untuk penghasilan buah pula ialah 25 C.

3) Kelembapan Relatif (RH): Ia merujuk kepada kandungan air di udara berbanding jumlah air di udara yang boleh 'dipegang' pada suhu tertentu. RH yang terlalu tinggi akan menyebabkan sistem perpeluhan pokok menurun kerana molekul air dalam pokok sukar untuk keluar. Ini akan juga menyebabkan kekurangan zat pada tanaman. Ia juga boleh mengundang penyakit bawaan kulat & hama pada tanaman.

4) Karbon Dioksida: Ianya penting untuk proses Fotosintesis.

5) Kitaran Udara: Ia penting untuk mengelakkan berlakunya udara terperangkap di dalam rumah lindungan yang akan mengakibatkan perubahan suhu (tinggi/rendah) yang sangat ketara dengan udara di sekitarnya.

6) Oksigen: Penting untuk pernafasan. Selalunya tiada masalah untuk bahagian atas pokok mendapat bekalan Oksigen yang mencukupi akan tetapi keadaan media yang terlalu basah/air bertakung dan suhu yang terlalu tinggi akan mengurangkan jumlah oksigen dari akar ke bahagian atas pokok.

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2) TEMPERATURE: The optimum growing temperatures (day and night) vary for different
plant species and different varieties within a species. Eg. for most Tomatoes, germination and post-emergence temperatures = 23-25 C (74-77 F). Production optimum temperatures = 22 C (72 F) day/20C (68 F) night.

3) RELATIVE HUMIDITY (RH): The amount of water in the air compared to the total amount of water that the air can hold at a given temperature. %RH = Amount of water in the air X 100 Amount of water possible at a given temp. As the temperature increases the amount of water that the air can hold increases. When the air is saturated water molecules condense. This causes clouds when at altitude or fog when near the ground. How does this relate to tomato plants growing in a greenhouse? As the RH increases around the leaf (concentration of water molecules outside increases) it makes it more difficult for the water molecules inside the leaf to move out (transpiration) via diffusion (the passive movement of a substance from high to low concentration . Therefore, as the RH increases, transpiration decreases, water and therefore
nutrient movement decrease, and nutrient deficiencies can result. ALSO, as RH increases and transpiration decreases, leaf temperatures often increase, since transpiration is the plant’s way of cooling itself.
Optimum RH range for tomatoes (and most plants) = 55% - 95%. During hot, dry weather, fan and pad cooling adds moisture to the air. On hot, humid days, fan and pad cooling adds moisture but does not cool as well. During cool, damp weather, RH inside the greenhouse can approach 95%.

4) CARBON DIOXIDE: As mentioned earlier, carbon dioxide is critical for photosynthesis and enrichment is most important during the Winter on cold mornings. Outside ambient levels are around 330 ppm, part per million, (higher in cities due to industrial exhaust products). Enrichment = 800 to 1000 ppm.

5) AIR CIRCULATIONS: This avoids pockets of high or low temperature, humidity or carbon dioxide. This also reduces the BOUNDARY LAYER (the physical “still air” layer around
the leaf) so that proper gas exchange and transpiration can occur. When cooling fans are off use HAF (horizontal air flow) fans in the upper part of the greenhouse.

6) OXYGEN: All parts of the plant require oxygen for respiration. There is usually no problem supplying the top part of the plant with enough. But waterlogging and high temps. will inhibit oxygen movement to the roots.